Rodan + Fields / Blog / Science of Skincare

The Science Behind Pure C Vitamin C Serum


Imagine of Rodan + Fields Pure C Serum with Dr's notes, reading: The purest form of vitamin C. Powered by 10% pure ascorbic acid. Created in R+F Laboratories, Berkeley, CA

WHY PURE C SERUM?

There are many types of Vitamin C products on the market ranging in consistency, texture and Vitamin C stability. Unfortunately, Vitamin C formulated in water is not stable and decomposition results in discoloration, loss of Vitamin C, and reduction in its antioxidant benefits.1

Pure C Serum is a unique, self-activating, 10% Ascorbic Acid serum, that addresses the visible signs of age, keeps Vitamin C in a dormant and potent state until ready for use. Formulated without water or oil which means it won’t degrade over time.

Some products avoid this instability using oil soluble/water soluble derivatives of Vitamin C. These are more stable and allow for formulation with water, but they must be converted in the skin to active Vitamin C, until that happens, the antioxidant benefits may be reduced.

Vitamin C formulations including Oil, Silicone, water, emulsion, glycol Zingerone-based formulas.

Oil- or Silicone-based formula

Formula with a dispersion of Vitamin C crystals/particles

Water-based formula

Solution of Vitamin C molecules dissolved in water. Think how table salt dissolves in water.

Oil-in-water emulsion

Formula where the Vitamin C or derivative is dissolved in water, but oils are used to improve aesthetics.

Glycol-in-oil emulsion

Vitamin C is dissolved in Glycol and glycol is emulsified into an oil or silicone-based emulsion

Glycol Serum

Vitamin C is dissolved in a Glycol no oil phase used

Oil Serum

Ascorbic acid derivative is dissolved in oil- or silicone-based formula

“It uses pure L-ascorbic acid — not derivatives… and it’s formulated without water or oil. That’s huge because vitamin C is notoriously unstable and degrades when exposed to water.”

Dr. Faranak Kamangar

L-Ascorbic acid + Acetyl Zingerone

Molecular structure of L-Ascorbic acid & Acetyl Zingerone

Pure C serum contains stable pure L-ascorbic acid and acetyl zingerone in a glycol serum, providing two lines of defense against aging: antioxidant booster and collagen support.

1Jansson PJ, Jung HR, Lindqvist C, Nordström T. Oxidative decomposition of vitamin C in drinking water. Free Radic Res. 2004;38(8):855-860.


PURE C SERUM HAS STABLE VITAMIN C TO SUPPORT NATUAL COLLAGEN PRODUCTION

Unlike some other products in the market that can degrade and turn yellow after a few uses, Pure C Serum’s potency remains as you use it versus degradation from day 1.

Does your Vitamin C Serum look like this?

Visual comparison of Rodan + Fields Pure C Serum (clear) vs vitamin C serum in water (yellow)

“You know how vitamin C serums often turn yellow or brown? That’s oxidation… By removing water from the equation entirely, this formula maintains potency.”

Dr. Faranak Kamangar

It all starts with the science. Our dermatologists and chemists developed this pure 10% Vitamin C serum in a unique water-free + oil-free formula, for optimal stability, potency and efficacy. Pure C Serum delivers a consistent dose of 10% ascorbic acid from the first drop to the last, unlike some other formulations that can degrade over time.*

Chart showing fold loss of vitamin C of Pure C (negligible) vs 10% Ascorbic Acid in water, pH 3.2 (ratio of 20)

* based on a 30-day stability study.

This pure 10% Vitamin C serum is contained within a unique waterless + oil-free formula!

Pure C Serum’s unique formula maintains stability and potency versus the market leading products.*

Chart showing fold loss ratio of Vitamin C. Pure C Serum (ratio 1), and 3 competitors over (ratio 4)

* based on a 30-day stability study.

Pure C Serum contains Vitamin C which has been shown to increase collagen production. Confirming what is known in the scientific literature. 2,3

“The data shows it can increase collagen production by 35% in just 48 hours… demonstrating true collagen building.”

Dr. Faranak Kamangar
Chart showing newly synthesized collagen-1 in skin cells. L-ascorbic acid (vitamin c) showing 25uM (35% new collagen-1 vs control). Compared with media only (0%).

*Based on in vitro studies on skin cells.

2Geesin JC, Gordon JS, Berg RA. Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate. Skin Pharmacol. 1993;6(1):65-71.

3Murad S, Tajima S, Johnson GR, Sivarajah S, Pinnell SR. Collagen synthesis in cultured human skin fibroblasts: effect of ascorbic acid and its analogs. J Invest Dermatol. 1983;81(2):158-162.


PURE C SERUM DELIVERS VITMAIN C FOR TWICE THE ANTIOXIDANT PROTECTION

Ratio of total Vitamin C detected. Ascorbic Acid in skin 8 hours after application:

Chart showing ascorbic Acid in skin 8 hours after application. Pure C Serum showing ratio over 50, vs oil-based formulation (<10), ascorbic acid derivative (negligible)

Pure C Serum in this waterless, oilless formula, delivers more REAL Vitamin C to the skin where it’s needed compared to the most popular derivative.4

“No derivatives means the skin doesn’t have to do the conversion work. You’re getting the real deal — pure ascorbic acid that can get to work immediately.”

Dr. Faranak Kamangar

Does your Vitamin C Serum really deliver Vitamin C?

Unlike some water and oil-based serums that can degrade over time, Pure C Serum remains at full potency, enhancing the skin’s antioxidant defense by 2X to powerfully combat damaging free radicals.4

Ratio of the Antioxidant Capability of Skin Treated vs Untreated

Chart showing Ratio of the Antioxidant Capability of Skin Treated vs Untreated. Pure C showing ratio of 2 vs placebo (1).

Surface % oxidized proteins in the Dermis

Chart showing surface % oxidized proteins in the dermis. Maximum 100% change vs stimulated control. Pure C Serum Treated showing 56%.

%Change vs Stimulated Control

Pure C Serum was shown to protect against environmental aggressors by 44% to defend against visible signs of premature skin aging.5

“The clinical results are really compelling — 94%… less noticeable wrinkles… three-quarters saw plumper, smoother skin… It is possible to change skin structure… if the science and chemistry is right.”

Dr. Faranak Kamangar
Before and after image of study participant at baseline vs 8 weeks.

+ 94% achieved less noticeable wrinkles**
+ 82% had fewer fine lines*
+ 75% noticed plumper-looking skin*

*Based on an 8-week U.S. clinical and consumer study.
**Based on an 8-week U.S. clinical study using image analysis of wrinkles.

4Based on an ex-vivo study
5Based on an ex-vivo study on UV irradiated skin, maximum oxidized proteins from the untreated UV-irradiated control.

Pure C Vitamin C Serum

Pure C Serum is a collagen-supporting longevity serum, powered by the purest form of Vitamin C, that helps preserve a youthful appearance for visibly firmer, smoother, brighter skin. 

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